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olddrum
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| Joined: | Wed Jun 13th, 2007 |
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Posted: Wed Jun 13th, 2007 02:07 pm |
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I replaced a 40 gal heater with a 50 gal because I had to keep the temp maxed out on the 40 to provide enough hot water. With our very hard water, it limed up very quickly & I thought a larger tank with lower temperature setting would do the job. It's still runnng out too quickly, so I ran a test: Ran the hot water into a jetted tub until it ran cool, then put a voltage tester across the elements. The top element registered 240v, and the bottom registered 0v.
My question - is this normal? Should both elements work at the same time when the water is cold? I need to understand how this works to properly trouble shoot the problem - this is in a romantic B&B cottage where people expect plenty of hot water.
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elenano
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| Joined: | Sat Sep 11th, 2004 |
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Posted: Wed Jun 13th, 2007 06:52 pm |
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It IS normal. The elements do not operate simultaneously. The main question, though, is one of expectations. A 40-gallon water heater has 30 gallons of hot water available, a 50 has 37 1/2. How big is that jetted tub?
Instead of getting a still bigger tank, you might consider getting another 40 and putting it in series with the 50, if there is enough room for it. That would give you a lot more hot water for a whole lot less than the cost of a larger tank.
Randy Schuyler
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olddrum
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Posted: Wed Jun 13th, 2007 07:58 pm |
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Darn! Additional heaters aren't feasible due to space constraints; I tried a tankless electric in series several years ago but the hard water got it. Guess I'll just have to turn the heater up hotter & replace elements every year.
Thanks
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elenano
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Posted: Thu Jun 14th, 2007 09:24 am |
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Or you could buy a sediment flush kit from us  and control the sediment buildup by flushing so that your lower element doesn't get buried and burn out.
Randy Schuyler
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olddrum
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Posted: Thu Jun 14th, 2007 12:20 pm |
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I'll look into it next year when I can shut down for a while. The location is not easy to work with!
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energyexpert
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Posted: Thu Jun 14th, 2007 02:45 pm |
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Can you get another cable pulled to the water heater? If so, you can change out the lower thermostat (slave) with another top thermostat (master) and feed each thermostat separately. This will double your heating capacity.
David
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olddrum
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Posted: Wed Jun 20th, 2007 01:19 pm |
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This is very possible (& cheap, since I do my own wiring). I will see exactly what is required..
Thanks!
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olddrum
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Posted: Thu Jun 21st, 2007 02:41 pm |
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Are there any directions/discussions on how to hook up the 2nd master thermostat - i.e., which wires to disconnect from the old master and which terminals to use onthe new thermostat?
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energyexpert
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Posted: Thu Jun 21st, 2007 04:41 pm |
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The following discussion will follow the picture of the top thermostat in "Tanklets."
Go to Tanklets at the top of the Tank.
In tanklets directory go to Electric Water Heater Issues.
The black wire and red wire go from the top thermostat to the bottom thermostat and element. Disconnect these from the top thermostat and connect to the new feed from the power supply. The bottom of these wires will connect to the top of the new master thermostat you install in the bottom. Then connect the lower element to the new lower thermostat exactly as the top element is connected to the top thermostat (yellow and blue wires).
David
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olddrum
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Posted: Fri May 9th, 2008 03:25 am |
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It took the better part of a year, but I finally got the lower thermostat changed out and wired. Seems to be working well, really cutting hte reheating time. I'll see about that flush kit next. Thanks for the advice.
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