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Erin Member
| Joined: | Fri Sep 7th, 2007 |
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Posted: Mon Sep 10th, 2007 08:10 pm |
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We have been trying to get hot water to flow in our new home for about two weeks. After having an electrician check out our power supply, we were told that it has a steady current but only slightly warm water comes out of the faucet. I was reading on some websites and thought maybe it was the thermostat temperature and turned it up to the highest level it could go to and it is still not hot, only luke warm. The model is an electric Rheem 50 gallon that is three years old. Any advice would be appreciated.
Erin
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eleent Member
| Joined: | Sat Sep 11th, 2004 |
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Posted: Tue Sep 11th, 2007 12:55 am |
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Hello: A good first step is to run a little hot water (or warm water) at the tap. Then, go to the heater and feel both lines on top. Make sure the cold line is indeed cold and see if the hot line is as hot as it should be or is only warm like the water at the tap. This will let you know if the problem is with the heater or with the plumbing. Let us know what you find 
Yours, Larry
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Erin Member
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Posted: Thu Sep 13th, 2007 03:18 pm |
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Thanks for the response
The cold line was cold and the hot water line was warm like the water.
Erin
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eleent Member
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Posted: Sat Sep 15th, 2007 12:23 am |
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Hello: This tells you the problem is with the heater, not piping. Time to look at the thermostats. Are they set to a specific temperature? Can they be set higher? Do they show any water or electrical short damage? When they are turned up, you should hear a definite click as they switch. With hatch covers off, you will have 240 volts exposed. Get help if you need it!
Yours, Larry
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Erin Member
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Posted: Sun Sep 16th, 2007 05:09 pm |
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The thermostat is already as high as it will go and there was no water or evidence of electrical shorts or anything. It looked brand new inside. I will most likely have the electrician check the heating elements, that is probably the problem. Thanks for the information.
Erin
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Posted: Sun Sep 16th, 2007 06:50 pm |
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Hello: There will be a separate thermostat for each element. Both should be set the same. Testing elements for continuity and leaks to ground would be my next move. If elements test OK, you know thermostats must be the problem. Good luck!
Yours, Larry
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jerdadgman Member
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Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 02:54 pm |
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Could the problem you are having be because the cold water nipple has corroded and the long cold water tube inside the water heater has become disconnected? Cold water is supposed to be delivered to the bottom of the tank. If disconnected, cold water would come into the tank at the top and mix with the hot water leaving the hot water exit. I am having the same problem with water temp seeming cooler than the thermostats are set. Also, during a shower, all of a sudden the water turns cold. We turn off the cold water in the shower and wait about one minute for hot water to return. We then turn on the cold water to a comfortable setting. I had replaced both heaters and the upper thermostat. The temp of the metal tank near the thermostats is the same temp as the thermostat setting. My water heater is 7-years old and the anode is shot. This, I could see in the hole where the upper heater is. I should have looked for the cold water entrance tube. I hope this helps.
Jerry
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jerdadgman Member
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Posted: Thu Nov 8th, 2007 11:04 pm |
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| Turns out, the problem I was having with sudden cold water was not the dip tube as I thought. I have two hot water pumps mounted under two sinks. A push of a button starts a pump which pumps hot water back into the cold water system. They run for about 45-60 seconds. When I turn on the hot water tap, we have hot water after a few seconds. No water is wasted waiting for 45-60 seconds of water running down the drain. The problem I was having was a stuck valve on one of the pumps. I've ordered a new valve motor. Meanwhile, I am keeping the valve closed permanently. Now, no cold water shocks when taking a shower. I've learned a lot about my water heater and the hot water pumps.
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