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waterheaterrescue.com > Forums > The Tank > New GE Gas Water Heater - Pilot won't stay lit until tank te |
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waterheaterrescue.com > Forums > The Tank > New GE Gas Water Heater - Pilot won't stay lit until tank te |
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| New GE Gas Water Heater - Pilot won't stay lit until tank te | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Mon Jun 8th, 2009 02:02 pm |
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41st Post |
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Ej Member
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Please look at the following two spec sheets. Your model number could be the ultra low nox system or the standard. Pay attention to the burner cover and how high the thermostat is mounted above the cover. This will tell us which version you have. Ultra Low-nox http://waterheating.rheem.com/content/resources/documents/specsheets/Residential%20Gas/RHGasLowNOxPro.pdf Ultra Low-nox Manual http://waterheating.rheem.com/content/resources/documents/use_care/UltraLowNOxUC.pdf Standard http://waterheating.rheem.com/content/resources/documents/specsheets/Residential%20Gas/RHGasPro.pdf Standard Manual http://waterheating.rheem.com/content/resources/documents/use_care/ResGasGuardianSystem.pdf The ultra Low-nox has the fiberglass gasket. The standard has a rubber gasket and will be easier to service. Both have similar flame arrestors that need cleaning. Neither have a radiation shield.
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| Posted: Tue Jun 9th, 2009 03:07 am |
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42nd Post |
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ulbhpy Member 
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Thanks Ej. Now it is clear that my GE is same as standard Rheem which means rubber Gasket. The manual you linked also says to vacuum burner and floor below and wash the burner in mild dish washing detergent. If there any tips for flame arrester removal and cleaning they would be appreciated.
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| Posted: Tue Jun 9th, 2009 11:35 pm |
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43rd Post |
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Ej Member
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You can not remove the flame arrestor in this model. It is built into the burner chamber floor. I would not recommend using anything other than an air compressor to blow out the small little holes that make up the bottom of the inside burner chamber. Also make sure the holes on the outside jacket on each side are 100% clean.
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| Posted: Wed Jun 10th, 2009 09:28 pm |
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44th Post |
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ulbhpy Member
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Okay. This project will be done this weekend. In the meantime I found the following in Rheem website that explains why summer heat causes pilot to turn off. http://waterheating.rheem.com/content/resources/documents/tech%20bulletins/1400%20Series/1411.pdf Looks like my problem will get worse in summer. I have 2 whirly birds on my roof, however Dallas heat will get worse compared to May when this started happening. I will see how to keep my attic ventilated even better (another whirly bird close to water heater???). Wish Rheem designed their water heaters for attic like my previous one that lasted 16+ years.
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| Posted: Wed Jun 10th, 2009 11:51 pm |
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45th Post |
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Ej Member
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Maybe power vents that are on a thermostat that the louvers open on temperature rise would do the trick.
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| Posted: Tue Jun 23rd, 2009 07:55 pm |
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46th Post |
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KPRUITT Member 
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 I have had it with the service asstiance that you have to talk with, it wears on your sanity... I have a pilot light that goes out.. every once in a while, sometimes it will stay lit for 6 months.. and then go out 3 times in one day... it goes out when the burner stops..I have four daughters...... I replaced the pilot - twice, took the burner out and cleaned. had the gas pressure checked and it was okay, but still increased it. a little. my 50 gal 12 year GE heater is 7 years old and i have been having pilot issues for 3 years.. it is located in a 1000 ft crawl space accessed from my basement...I am letting you know that I have plenty of air and the temp varies very little.. the vent is great and goes straight up. now the GE assistant wants me to give a pressure reading on the gas inflow$$%^& I wish that they could hire someone with knowledge, instead of someone that only knows how to say what they read..and not comprehend any of it.. any ideas please help...I have a guy coming to test the pressure once again???? 
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| Posted: Wed Jun 24th, 2009 12:37 am |
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47th Post |
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Ej Member
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What model do you have?
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| Posted: Wed Jun 24th, 2009 07:54 pm |
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48th Post |
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KPRUITT Member
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I am 500 miles from home and had one of my girls to get the model # SG50T12AA01 // SER# GENG1201A05233. Still waiting on gas pressure reading. thanks KP 
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| Posted: Thu Jun 25th, 2009 12:52 am |
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49th Post |
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Ej Member
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You should follow the cleaning method outlined above before any further repairs are made. These new heaters ain't your grandfather's Cadillac!
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| Posted: Thu Jun 25th, 2009 12:54 am |
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50th Post |
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Ej Member
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Almost forgot. You have a twelve year parts warranty on your heater.
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| Posted: Thu Jun 25th, 2009 03:08 am |
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51st Post |
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KPRUITT Member
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Okay------Yes I am aware of warranty. thanks. But after talking to GE and answering their list of questions- they found out that I did not know the exact reading of my gas pressure----idiots----so, before they will go any further, they insist that I get the pressure for them...----------- This problem keeps coming up in the summer ? pilot lights goes out // after burner goes off.  Like I said earlier - the heater is in my crawl space, with lots of open air.. Please let me know were these air intake vents are located. and I did remove burner and cleaned..it was not that bad, at all. this location is the same for the last 23 years.. I just got a bigger tank because of the 5 females in my home...ages 7-20 years. thanks for your time -- God bless. Keith P P.S. I was a self-employed builder and Developer for the last 22 years--Lots of experience in residential- (2007- destroyed Business & everything we had material speaking )-now I travel doing commercial superintendent work -but that is another story-
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| Posted: Sun Jun 28th, 2009 07:12 pm |
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52nd Post |
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Ej Member
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You can see airflow by looking at this diagram. http://globalimageserver.com/fetchDocument.aspx?id=ca56ebdb-9411-44f5-8b38-39093e1028d0 Yours is basically the same. I would suggest that you set up a fan as I described above to see if this is your problem.
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| Posted: Mon Jun 29th, 2009 10:09 pm |
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53rd Post |
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KPRUITT Member
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Hey, Thanks for all of the info.. My unit does not have the bottom side air intake or anywhere that is obvios, I always thought that odd.. But-- Skip forward. After seeing all of the problems with pilot lights and my heaters design compared to the one it has evolved into, and all the hoops the GE was getting me to jump. I just called Home Depot and pleaded my case.........They actually replaced my heater, AND I can not say how good and considerate they were... No question, no hassle, and no receipt.. just a new heater for my home.... How great of service is that...Thanks HD But my heater is in a crawl space, I had to pump it, pick it horizontal, slide it through a 24X26 hole--over carpet............what a day...... Any how I love the new design and I think that they are on to something here. It is working great back in GA, and the family is happy and I am back in N.O. GOD SPEED to all.......KEITTH P
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| Posted: Wed Jul 8th, 2009 08:44 am |
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54th Post |
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jeanine Member
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I have the very same model and it has done exactly what you described yours did problem is i dont have the receipt and it was bought in 2007 so i dont know how i would be able to get it replaced does anyone know if this is possible?
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| Posted: Wed Jul 8th, 2009 04:37 pm |
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55th Post |
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KPRUITT Member
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my tank, for years, ran out of hot water often. this new tank has been great, all of 6 of us can us it and after washing, it has never ran out of hot water..clearly then old version of the ge 50 gal gas heater was a bad design.. so - just contact someone at Home depot and explain the problem and they will take care of you.. the are aware of this problem.....I had no recipt and my tank was 8 years old... your purchase might be in their system.... if not they will take care of it and replace.... I brought mine in and talked to the lady in the heater dept.. they exchanged it and never got any info from me... good luck and GOD Speed......the new tank is 110% BETTER, YOU WILL NOT HAVE TO KEEP LIGHTING THE PILOT HA HA... ALSO THE VENTS ARE ALL AROUND AND WORKS GREAT... ENJOY YOUR HOT SHOWERS
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| Posted: Sat Sep 5th, 2009 01:50 pm |
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56th Post |
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Guest
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You HVAC humidifier solenoid valve didn't like and the Ruud was old and the tank began to leak and full of sediment... _________________ Last edited on Sun Sep 6th, 2009 04:46 am by Admin |
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| Posted: Sun Sep 6th, 2009 02:58 am |
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57th Post |
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Ej Member
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Guys the above is spam. Thanks.
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| Posted: Sun Sep 6th, 2009 04:46 am |
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58th Post |
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Admin Administrator
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Thanks, EJ. I should have noticed. I'm still suffering from jet lag.... For others who come after, the post preceding Ej's had a nonsensical sentence followed by a link to a product, which I deleted. Randy Schuyler Tank Administrator
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| Posted: Mon Sep 7th, 2009 04:38 pm |
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59th Post |
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jcbart Member
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Hi Larry, I'm going to replace my ageing water heater as the manufacturer is out of business, it's an '88 model, and I have'nt been able to fin the anode. Can you recomend a replacement water heater? John
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| Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2009 04:41 pm |
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60th Post |
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eleent Member
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Hello: I see two courses for you to travel. One is to add an anode at the hot outlet. The disadvantage is you don't get to "read" the old one to learn the condition of the tank. Still this could keep your present heater going and if it doesn't, you can put that anode in your new heater. Getting a new heater is covered nicely in "Choosing a Hot Water Heater" which is accessed from the home page. Still, your American brand heater's anode is likely found by poking a stiff wire or small screwdriver around in the draft hood leg hole that's just behind the cold line. That's the most common location. Good luck! Yours, Larry
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