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Worth saving a older tank
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undee70ss
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Joined: Fri Feb 8th, 2008
Location: Illinois USA
Posts: 11
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 Posted: Sun Feb 10th, 2008 03:58 pm

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What I have is a 1991 State WH. It was in the house when I bought it in 2002. It has given good service till recently, it runs out of hot water quick. I did the tests (found on this site) and the problem points to a bad or broken dip tube. Is this worth trying to repair, or would it be better to replace it? I don't know it was serviced before 2002, but since then every yr I completely drain the tank, let the cold run while the drain is open to flush it out. Looks like it has a AL anode ( I have not removed it) and the burner is clean (for its age).  Since pics are worth a 1000 words, I included some. Any advice is appreciated.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x285/undee762/DSC00149.jpg hex head

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x285/undee762/DSC00152.jpg hex head

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x285/undee762/DSC00153.jpg hex head

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x285/undee762/DSC00154.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x285/undee762/DSC00155.jpg drain valve

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x285/undee762/DSC00156.jpg heater info

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x285/undee762/DSC00157.jpg heater info

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x285/undee762/DSC00158.jpg drain valve

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x285/undee762/DSC00159.jpg drain valve

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x285/undee762/DSC00160.jpg burner

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x285/undee762/DSC00161.jpg drain valve under cover

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x285/undee762/DSC00163.jpg

 

elenano
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Joined: Sat Sep 11th, 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 1322
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 Posted: Mon Feb 11th, 2008 01:44 am

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Actually, it was made in June 1993. I could tell that from the label. Since you're being thorough, there is one more picture I'd like to see. Tilt your camera so that it doesn't photograph the burner so much as the roof of the chamber above the burner.

If that looks good and you aren't experiencing rusty water, I think it would be worth it to try to take out the anode and replace it.  But I want to see that last picture. It's the most important one.

Randy Schuyler

undee70ss
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Joined: Fri Feb 8th, 2008
Location: Illinois USA
Posts: 11
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 Posted: Mon Feb 11th, 2008 07:49 pm

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elenano wrote: Actually, it was made in June 1993. I could tell that from the label.

Randy Schuyler


How can you tell???

elenano wrote:

If that looks good and you aren't experiencing rusty water,

Not having any rusty water, just running out of hot water quick. For a shower, it starts off plenty hot for 2 to 3 min, turns lukewarm 3 to 7 min. 7+ the shower valve is at full hot. Better be out at 10+ or its going to get cold. Before you could get 30 min before you had to get out. (with a full hot tank)

elenano wrote:

Since you're being thorough, there is one more picture I'd like to see. Tilt your camera so that it doesn't photograph the burner so much as the roof of the chamber above the burner. 

I think it would be worth it to try to take out the anode and replace it.  But I want to see that last picture. It's the most important one.

Randy Schuyler


I took several. It is somewhat diffcult to photograph given the small opening and the gas lines/thermocouple line in the way. Using a flash (even on the lowest setting) made the pics too bright to see anything, so I tried to backlight it using a small flashlight.

 

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x285/undee762/water%20heater/DSC00187.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x285/undee762/water%20heater/DSC00186.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x285/undee762/water%20heater/DSC00185.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x285/undee762/water%20heater/DSC00184.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x285/undee762/water%20heater/DSC00183.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x285/undee762/water%20heater/DSC00182.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x285/undee762/water%20heater/DSC00181.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x285/undee762/water%20heater/DSC00180.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x285/undee762/water%20heater/DSC00179.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x285/undee762/water%20heater/DSC00178.jpg

elenano
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Joined: Sat Sep 11th, 2004
Location: USA
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 Posted: Tue Feb 12th, 2008 03:33 am

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As to the date of manufacture, there was an F93 in the serial number. F for June (sixth month), 93 for 1993.

The combustion chamber roof is not immaculate, but it's mostly OK. A lot of white condensation marks, a little rust.

I'd put a new anode and dip tube in and see what happens. If you want to play it safe, leave the hex anode alone and put in a combo rod (provided you can remove the hot nipple). That way, if the tank goes kaput pronto, you can transfer the combo rod to its replacement.

On the other hand, putting in a combo means battling that dielectric union. It will probably be simpler to just cut the copper plumbing and solder on a male adapter and use a copper flex line.

Randy Schuyler

undee70ss
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Joined: Fri Feb 8th, 2008
Location: Illinois USA
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 Posted: Thu Feb 14th, 2008 11:08 pm

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elenano wrote: As to the date of manufacture, there was an F93 in the serial number. F for June (sixth month), 93 for 1993.




I see you have that info on how to tell on a page that I didn't see before.

I decided that I can't break anything thats already broke and ordered one of your kits. I took a chance and tried to loosen the hex head anode and got it to move (needed the big boy breaker bar) I did not take it out as i didn't want to deal with a leak till I have the new parts. If, for some reason i have to replace the tank, Ill just have to make sure the new one also has a hex anode. Thanks for your help. I never knew exactly how water heaters worked till I visited this site.

 

 

undee70ss
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Joined: Fri Feb 8th, 2008
Location: Illinois USA
Posts: 11
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 Posted: Tue Mar 18th, 2008 05:06 pm

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Just a update, received the kit, new dip tube, drain valve, T&P and anode installed, (been installed for several weeks) and now I have hot water like a new tank would deliver. The dip tube was split all the way to the top (when I tried to remove it, it fell to the bottom, and had to fish it out the drain valve opening, doing that was "fun") and the anode was completely gone, only the hex plug remaining. I guessing the tank suffered some damage without the anode (a little bit of brown water came out when I flushed it with the new parts) but hopefully I can get a few more yrs out of it. I was worried that the tank was leaking as it kept dripping water just after filling (somewhere on the bottom and on burner) but I guess it was just condensation from filling with cold water (which is extra cold this time of the yr) and it stopped after the tank started to warm up. Thanks for the great info on this site, your kit, and your replies. I am a bunch better educated on hot water heaters.

Thanks

Greg U (undee762)


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