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| T&P valve leaking after 1 day | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sun Sep 27th, 2009 08:34 pm |
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41st Post |
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micali Member 
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OK, after about 30 mins or so it is sitting around 85 with a max spike of 93.
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| Posted: Sun Sep 27th, 2009 10:06 pm |
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42nd Post |
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elenano GCF-GL
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That's too high. It should be no more than 80 psi ever. Time to price expansion tanks. And read this Tanklet: http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Troubleshooting/Tanklets/expansion-tanks.html. Randy Schuyler
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| Posted: Sun Sep 27th, 2009 10:24 pm |
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43rd Post |
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micali Member
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Ok, didn't seem to have that much info but thanks. So I should charge the tank to the max 80psi and that should solve my problems? I'm just a little concerned that the tanks say don't go over 80psi and my pressure is 85 psi. Seems like it will fill up that tank when the system isn't being used. But, you guys no more than me. I'll have to place the larger 5 gallon tank since the two that I looked at said for that kind of pressure use the 5 gal. Oh, I went to lowes and looked at thier tanks and in the instructions it states that anything over 80psi needs a regulator but the one from HD doesn't say anything about that. I hate when similar products have such different instructions. I believe you said that I should put the ET on the lower side of the HWH but since I don't have the space should I just put an extension at the T so it will raise it a little farther away from the heater? I saw something about 18" away. Seems like alittle is better than nothing.
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| Posted: Sun Sep 27th, 2009 10:49 pm |
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44th Post |
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micali Member
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Hey, wouldn't 85psi be alot of pressure at our sinks? The water coming out of sinks doesn't seem to be that much, no different than anyone else's. I know that's not an accurate way of diagnosing anything, just questioning.
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| Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 01:47 am |
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45th Post |
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eleent Member
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Hello: Pressure and flow are two sides of the same coin. You may have high pressure but poor flow because of restriction in the lines. You would never know about the high pressure just from looking at flow. Codes want a pressure reducer if pressure is 80 psi or more. You're right on the edge of that limit As for placement of the expansion tank; keep it away from the heat of the water heater. It will last longer it it stays cool. Also, it must be on the cold side of the tank or it will push hot water back into the cold lines. That's just gosh  Yours, Larry
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| Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 07:41 pm |
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46th Post |
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richard s Member
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I have the same leaking t-p valve. I replaced the t-p twice. Still drips, Can this be dangerous, like the tank blowing up? Can I just let it drip till I need to replace the heater. The heater is over 10 years. thank you richard s
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| Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 09:08 pm |
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47th Post |
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micali Member
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From what I've learned your tank wont explode cause the T&P valve will go before that can happen. If it does and its not drained properly, like mine, oh boy what a mess you will have.
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| Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 09:46 pm |
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48th Post |
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elenano GCF-GL
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There is a lot of misconception about what is meant by "tank blowing up." Water heaters often rust through somewhere and break and flood a space and people say they "blew up." They didn't. If you want to see what is really meant by "exploding water heater," go to http://www.abc15.com/news/local/story/Explosion-rips-through-north-Phoenix-home/7p8jpeMzcU664FSrKb_osA.cspx. I think you'll agree that you don't want THAT to happen to you. If your T&P is regularly running from too-high pressure, just ignoring it could be fatal. The solution has been described above: maybe a pressure reducer and certainly an expansion tank. Pressure higher than 80 psi and thermal expansion spikes are very hard on water heaters, piping and everything else in the house. It's worth getting it fixed. And if you just let the T&P run, well, eventually it may lime up so that it doesn't work at all. Then, if the control fails to shut off, you'll be Ground Zero for a moon launch.  Randy Schuyler Last edited on Mon Sep 28th, 2009 09:47 pm by elenano |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 29th, 2009 12:51 am |
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49th Post |
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micali Member
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Mythbusters did a segment on hot water heaters exploding. They couldn't get a fatal launch until they bypassed all the safety features and when that happened that tank launched through the roof and flew about 90 ft into the air. Total devestation. I checked the pressure at my neighbors house and it's the same as mine. I didn't leave it on long enough to get any pressure spikes. He just recently moved in and there's not a hot water heater installed yet. I charged my ex tank to the max 80psi and I will install it tomarrow or later this week. So will it actually lower my pressure or just releive it when it's installed?
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| Posted: Tue Sep 29th, 2009 06:46 am |
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50th Post |
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eleent Member
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Hello: An expansion tank can only prevent pressure from rising much over its normal set point and only if it's sized right. It can't lower pressure. Yours, Larry
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| Posted: Tue Sep 29th, 2009 10:41 am |
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51st Post |
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micali Member
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so, how will this tank help me when the max it can take is 80psi and the line pressure is 85psi? I guess it can't hurt anything. I understand that when the line pressure is 70 you charge the ex tank to match and anything above that gets released into the ET. Makes since.
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| Posted: Tue Sep 29th, 2009 02:56 pm |
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52nd Post |
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elenano GCF-GL
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You also need the pressure reducer. You can set that to, say, 60 psi and charge the expansion tank to the same and that should fix it. Randy Schuyler
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| Posted: Tue Sep 29th, 2009 03:43 pm |
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53rd Post |
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eleent Member
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Hello: If you go down the path of 80 psi charge in the expansion tank and 85 psi water pressure, you get five psi worth of compression in the expansion tank, reducing the capacity available to do the work you put it there for. So, you would likely need a bigger tank. Randy's suggestion of a reducer set to as much as 60 psi matched with an expansion tank precharged to the same pressure is the right fix. Installing a gauge downstream of the reducer lets you know at a glance that everything is working as it should. Yours, Larry
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| Posted: Tue Sep 29th, 2009 04:34 pm |
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54th Post |
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micali Member
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I will have to have plumber out to see how much he would charge to put a reducer in line. I wont be able to do that myself. Keeps getting better.
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| Posted: Tue Sep 29th, 2009 06:37 pm |
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55th Post |
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micali Member
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called water company and they said that I can put a reducer just outside the meter box. He said to get a box to put it in so I can have easy access to it if I neee to. I guess Ill put one there.
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| Posted: Tue Sep 29th, 2009 09:58 pm |
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56th Post |
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eleent Member
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Hello: I don't know your climate, but if freezing is a possibility I suppose the box in ground is best. Another consideration is water. I'd prefer to keep the reducer dry so the various fittings on it don't corrode away Yours, Larry
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| Posted: Wed Sep 30th, 2009 12:13 am |
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57th Post |
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micali Member
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I live in arkansas so freezing could be a possibility. I'm not sure how I'd keep it from freezing if its not buried. I didnt think about water filling up the hole. Crap, this keeps getting better. I'd rather it be in the house but theres just not enough room.
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| Posted: Wed Sep 30th, 2009 06:09 am |
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58th Post |
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eleent Member
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Hello: If it's not clay, you could dig out a bit more and put gravel down to promote drainage. Have a look at some reducers and see which ones have the least amount of plated steel to rust. If you can find one made of brass, plastic and stainless steel, you'll be better off in the long run. http://customer.honeywell.com/honeywell/ProductInfo.aspx/D05T1102 is an example Yours, Larry
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| Posted: Wed Sep 30th, 2009 07:17 pm |
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59th Post |
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micali Member
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I now have a leak somewhere. I checked my meter and saw the silver dial turning. Stange thing is that it spins slow then stops, for a sec, then spins agian. It keeps doing it. The one suspect place is where the line got broke by a backhoe. We were grading the land and snagged it. It was repaired and burried. That was 3 years ago. Nothing in the house is leaking except the water heater. The bill went from $34 to $50. I'm at a loss. I checked the toilets, even shut them off at the valve and it was still turning. Tried to shut the valve in the house but I dont think it shuts all the way off anymore.
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| Posted: Wed Sep 30th, 2009 07:34 pm |
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60th Post |
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eleent Member
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Hello: As you need a working shut-off at the house, put a new ball valve there and see what happens with the meter when the new valve is closed. This sort of leak hunting can take time  Yours, Larry
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