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 Posted: Wed Mar 19th, 2008 12:58 pm
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djwidget
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I have a direct vent water heater and ever since the land behind ours was developed high winds blow out the pilot on our water heater.

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 Posted: Wed Mar 19th, 2008 05:21 pm
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eleent
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Hello:  Good troubleshooting demands that one make no assumptions and gather up a pile of information to start.  Anything that affects air flow is suspect.  Vent pipe termination location, any fans in the house, blockages in the air intake or vent, pilot position and strength... all these things can have an effect.  I believe there is info in tanklets of pilot light faulure that might be of some use.  What fits your situation?

Yours,  Larry

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 Posted: Sun Mar 23rd, 2008 02:14 am
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Ej
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Check with the manufacturer.  Some models have wind screens for just that reason.  If not talk to them about an acceptable way a sheet metal shop can fabricate one for you.

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 Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 03:25 am
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lgdecker
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We live in the plains about 20 miles east of Colorado Springs, where the wind always blows.  We built a new house almost four years ago and have a Rheem 21150DV water heater that uses propane.   We have had problems with the pilot blowing out from the beginning.

Our builder installed covers on the exhaust pipe as the first attempt at a fix, but it doesn't solve all the pilot problems; helps when the wind is coming from some directions but not when it changes.

I have noted that if we have windows open, the swamp cooler running, etc that the pilot goes out more frequently and is also difficult to light as the wind blowing through the water heater's exhaust pipe blows the lighter out as well as the pilot. 

We have had to unscrew the cover so many times the thin insulation on the inside of the door is destroyed around the edges, which I beleive is adding to the problem.

I'm thinking that replacing this insulation and making it bigger than the access panel might keep the wind from blowing right down the exhaust pipe when windows are open etc, and help to keep the pilot lit.  Do you think this would help, and if so, where can I find this type of insulation?  It is very thin and I am sure it is fire proof.

I've had a plumber out to look at the cap they put on the exhaust pipe and he has no other suggestions to reduce or eliminate this problem.

Although the heater works great when the pilot is lit, we have been considering replacing it with another type of heater, either electric or on demand.  We have also wondered if we could put a different type of ignition system in this heater; one of our two furnaces is installed in the same utility closet and neither furnace has this problem. 

The utility closet doors and the doors to the rooms where they are located are all vented.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

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 Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 05:18 am
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eleent
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Hello:  A slightly bigger pilot flame could make it more resistant to being blown out.  Making sure the thermocouple is getting hit nicely by the pilot would be good as well. 

In Europe they refer to direct vent as "balanced flue", which essentially means that both inlet and outlet get hit by the same winds, so no air movement should happen in the combustion chamber as a result of wind.  That's the theory :D  If there are air leaks from the heater or its vent to the room, balance goes away.  I might want to double check that all connections in the vent/tank are really air tight.

Yours,  Larry

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 Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 02:08 pm
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lgdecker
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Thanks for the suggestions!  I'll call my plumber and share them with him; I'll also call my propane company as they may be able to help!

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