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| Problem removing an Anode | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Mon May 5th, 2008 08:15 pm |
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1st Post |
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mogulman Member 
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I have a GE 6 year warranty Water Heater that I go from Home Depot in 7/2003. It was manufacturered in 1/2003. I put it in myself. I'm in Colorado. It has a hex anode. I was flushing it yesterday and thought it would be a good idea to replace the anode. Woooa.. Not as easy as I thought... I tried removing the Anode using a regular adjustable wrench. No way. I tried some WD-40 on the threads. Still no luck. I went and bought a 1 1/16" socket (12 pt). Tried it with my Stanley 3/8" wrench and an adapter (1/2-3/8). No luck. Tried it with a 3 foot steel pipe and the bearings or something in the socket wrench stripped. The socket itself didn't strip, it is something inside the wrench. I also tried using an 18 volt ryobi impact driver. No luck. So... How do I get this thing out? or should I give up. -I guess I could go purchase a better socket wrench and try again.... Or some other method to get it out. -Just wait until the water heater totally dies and buy a new one. Forget about the Anode. Any suggestions?? I read the Q&A stuff on the web-site already and have spent a few hours google searching. Last edited on Mon May 5th, 2008 08:16 pm by mogulman |
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| Posted: Mon May 5th, 2008 09:51 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Wind Member
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I imagine it's probably not up high enough out of the jacket, but a nice big pipe wrench with a length of pipe for leverage is a good strong combo. The only other suggestion I can think of is a breaker bar. It'll take a lot more abuse than a rachet.
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| Posted: Tue May 6th, 2008 02:56 am |
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3rd Post |
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mogulman Member
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Ok.. Picked up a 1/2" 2-foot long breaker bar and tried that with my socket. No luck. Wasn't able to budge it. I put my foot on the side of the heater and tried to use all my weight (200lbs) and nothing. So do I just leave it in there and let the water heater last as long as it can or is there something else I should try?
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| Posted: Tue May 6th, 2008 03:39 am |
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4th Post |
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elenano Member
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There IS a possibility that you're going to be out of luck. There are strategies listed both under Know-how and in Tanklets that might help, but the impact wrench should have done it. Even if you can't budge it, though, there ARE alternatives. Consider seeing if the hot nipple is less recalcitrant than the anode and add a combo rod there (with six wraps of Teflon  ) and just keep an eye on that. Your tank does not have to rust out.Randy Schuyler
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| Posted: Tue May 6th, 2008 03:45 am |
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5th Post |
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mogulman Member
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Yeah.. I read through the stuff in Tanklets already. Will puting the anode in Hot nipple reduce my hot water flow? Are there any other drawbacks to puting it in? Is it too late for a heater that is almost 5 years old.
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| Posted: Tue May 6th, 2008 07:34 pm |
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6th Post |
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elenano Member
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Yes, outlet rods do reduce flow... Randy Schuyler
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| Posted: Tue May 6th, 2008 08:29 pm |
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7th Post |
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eleent Member
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Hello: Try your breaker bar with cheater. Put good pressure on it and while holding it tight, use a small sledge to whack the cheater. That turns you into a human impact wrench  A six point socket would be better, but try it with the tools you have first. I've managed to break 1/2" drive tools on anodes. 3/8" was way too small. All I use now is 3/4". The combo outlet can restrict water flow under some circumstances so it's better to replace the hex anode if possible.Yours, Larry
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| Posted: Sat May 10th, 2008 07:57 am |
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8th Post |
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david_ju Member
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you can change a another anode to the hot water nipple, you don't need take out the old one.
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| Posted: Sat May 10th, 2008 08:01 am |
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9th Post |
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elenano Member
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If you do that, be sure and install it with six wraps of Teflon tape so you can get it out when you want to check it. Also, I'm curious to hear how things went with Larry's advice, if you went there. Randy Schuyler
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| Posted: Wed Jun 4th, 2008 04:45 pm |
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10th Post |
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jac Member
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I am having a problem with smelly water at the cabin. It smells bad when we first start running water but gets better as we use it. I have tried to remove the anode with a 1/2 inch socket and an impact wrench. I am going to try a pipe on the socket next. Is there anything else I can try if this doesn't work?
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| Posted: Wed Jun 4th, 2008 06:33 pm |
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11th Post |
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elenano Member
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Those are the usual things to do. On the other hand, instead of battling the anode, you might simply pour hydrogen peroxide into the hot or cold nipple. That will solve the odor problem temporarily, and maybe permanently if the issue is just stagnation and not the anaerobic bacteria that react with anodes. Randy Schuyler
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| Posted: Wed Jun 4th, 2008 06:55 pm |
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12th Post |
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jac Member
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I think I will try that but how much should I put in?
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| Posted: Thu Jun 5th, 2008 06:32 am |
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13th Post |
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elenano Member
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Two pints for forty gallons. Randy Schuyler
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| Posted: Thu Jun 12th, 2008 04:18 pm |
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14th Post |
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emw_1 Member
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I've noticed that on my water heater the hex anode end protrudes from the tank somewhat. Is it permissible to heat (via propane torch, for example) the tank around the anode to make anode removal easier? This technique is widely used in other similar applications. Would this ruin the tank? I remember trying to remove an anode from a tank many years ago. I found it very difficult to keep the tank from moving when applying the torque to remove the anode. I wonder if counter-torque applied via a bar or wooden two by four across the hot and cold water fittings would solve this problem? Or would this damage the fittings? EMW
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| Posted: Sat Jun 14th, 2008 02:39 am |
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15th Post |
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eleent Member
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Hello: Try the human impact wrench trick first. (see above) I cannot recommend using a torch. There are risks and likely tank damage. Do let us know if you do the hammer on cheater trick. It's worked nicely for me. Yours, Larry
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