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 Posted: Wed Jun 4th, 2008 05:54 pm
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Builder man
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HI everyone, I'm new to the forum here. I want to replace my direct vent hot water heater with a power vent type. I have read almost everything on the web site about them, and called three shops that carry Rheem, Bradford-White and A.O. Smith. I decided I wanted the Bradford-white, only to call and learn that they only sell ones with the combo anode design. A.O. you can buy one with an aluminum anode, and then separately get a magnesium anode for another 23 bucks. Which sounded okay, except they also require two vents out the side of the house instead of one. Which creates a problem where I am venting out the side of my house. I am steering away from the Rheem with the glass flame arrest system. A plumber and the distributor both have said they are a real head ache. Any help? Any of the other makes that might work out? I feel like I have hit a wall.

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 Posted: Thu Jun 5th, 2008 05:08 am
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eleent
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Hello:  A question; why do you want to replace a direct vent with a power vent?  There are noise and reliability issues it seems :?

Yours,  Larry

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 Posted: Thu Jun 5th, 2008 12:48 pm
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Builder man
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Hi Larry,

We want to remove the chimney in our house. Our furnace is a direct vent unit, and the direct water heater is the only reason we still have it. The flashing is leaking around the chimney and the vent next to it, and I have remodeling plans for all three floors in the house where the chimney is in the way. So that's why I want to do this. What are the reliability and noise issues, I haven't read anything about that.

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 Posted: Fri Jun 6th, 2008 03:57 am
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Ej
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The noise is the fan running and movement through the venting.  The power vent has moving parts, diaphragms, electricity, solid state controls, etc.  In other words more components to fail and to maintain.  I'm not saying their bad but you must understand your trading simplicity for a more complex heater.

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 Posted: Sat Jun 7th, 2008 07:08 am
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eleent
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Hello:  I may be confusing terms, but a direct vent heater could not use a conventional chimney.  It would most likely vent that runs out a wall the heater stood next to.  Direct vent heaters come with the vent pipe.  It usually has an exhaust pipe run inside of the intake pipe and is four feet or less.

Yours,  Larry

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 Posted: Sat Jun 7th, 2008 05:02 pm
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evananda
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Hi,

I have just installed a Rheem Power Vent 50, LP, I had no way to vent a conventional water heater (that was my first choice). We have been getting hot water from the oil furnace, but it's not very good. Anyway, of course it dosn't work - it's codes are telling me that either the gas pressure is too high, which is what I suspect, because our LP range always has a super high flame. Or there is air in the line. Could there be air in this line, it branches off the other line - to the range, and this line is below grade? Is there a way to adjust the regulator on this Rheem?

Evan

OK, I just found out from the "plumber", not licensed (but I knew this), that he failed to connect up the gas to the main gas line, I guess that would be sort of a problem.

I should have just paid my regular guy the $1,200 he wanted for the job.

Last edited on Sat Jun 7th, 2008 09:32 pm by evananda

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 Posted: Sat Jun 7th, 2008 09:38 pm
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eleent
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Hello:  I think you have a dangerous situation :shock:  LP gas, below grade could allow that heavier than air gas to pool and accumulate, creating a bad situation.  I'd have someone familiar with LP come out and measure pressure at the heater and also see what's coming from the tank.  In new construction, a "propane drain" is considered essential to prevent the build-up of gas.

There are adjustments possible in the system, but in this case it's best to get qualified help.

Yours,  Larry

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 Posted: Sun Jun 8th, 2008 12:16 am
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evananda
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Yes, it could be dangerous. This Rheem heater has a gas sensor which will shut it down. I will also be putting a propane detector down there too.

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