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bcadiente Member
| Joined: | Mon Aug 11th, 2008 |
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Posted: Mon Aug 11th, 2008 07:51 pm |
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| I have a subdivision that has gas water heaters. One street has sediment issues big time. We use a plastic water piping throughout the home so the only metal would be the copper water service and the heater. We had our recirculating pumps plumbed directly into the bottom of the water heater w/ out a di-electric union there. We thought it was causing electrolysis and the sediment problem. Since then we have installed the di-electric fittings but the homeowners till have sediment problems. I'm out of ideas. I don't think it's a city thing because it's just one street. And I don't think it has anything to do with a water softener becasue some of the homes don't have one. The only thing I can think of at this point is it's now fixed but we cannot get all of the sediment out of the heater.
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Ej Member
| Joined: | Thu Aug 24th, 2006 |
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Posted: Mon Aug 11th, 2008 11:59 pm |
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| You can have a sample of your water analyzed to find out what's in the water. This would help you determine which direction to go.
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bcadiente Member
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Posted: Tue Aug 12th, 2008 12:47 am |
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| I think it is aluminum hydroxide. It is a slimy substance on one of the homes along with the heavy sediment. they say the aluminum hydroxide is caused from the anode rod reacting with the conductivity of the water. Supposedly the water softner causes that but half the homes have softeners and half don't. And if it was a water problem the community should be having problems. Trying to figure out what is causing it.
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eleent Member
| Joined: | Sat Sep 11th, 2004 |
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Posted: Tue Aug 12th, 2008 01:43 am |
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Hello: You're right that the aluminum anode is the likely source of the goo. Replace those anodes with magnesium rods. They generate far less corrosion byproduct. If you have decent water pressure and flow, the flushing kits sold elsewhere on this site might be useful. I hope you have check valves installed on the recirc lines. Spring checks are better than swing checks and will prevent sediment from leaving the tank via the recirc line.
Yours, Larry
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walt Member
| Joined: | Mon Aug 11th, 2008 |
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Posted: Tue Aug 12th, 2008 03:53 am |
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I have had apparent aluminum hydroxide sediment clogging flow restrictors, and dishwasher, since the plumber replaced our burst GE heater with an A.O. Smith heater. As the A.O Smith website recommended, I tested the pH both professionally and with a kit, and also checked the water company's numbers. The pH usually is greater than 7.5 so I was about to order a magnesium rod,as A.O. Smith recommends. Just to be sure, they put me through to their technical dept., and the girl said I should rather order the aluminum/zinc anode. Which is correct?
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eleent Member
| Joined: | Sat Sep 11th, 2004 |
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Posted: Tue Aug 12th, 2008 05:19 pm |
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Hello: If odor is a problem, the al/zn anode is the right pick. Otherwise, magnesium is best. Do you have a recirc line and does it have a working check valve in it?
Yours, Larry
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walt Member
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Posted: Wed Aug 13th, 2008 12:16 am |
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Thanks for the magnesium recommendation. Never occured to me about the recirc. I guess since it is lower on the tank, it could flush sediment into the system? Actually, we disconnected the power a couple months ago to save energy, but didn't close the valve. I closed it now.
What I don't understand is how our old GE tank didn't have these problems, unless it had an Mg anode, which I doubt. FYI, we have the A.O. Smith GVR 50 100 now(5 yr warranty).
Thanks again.
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walt Member
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Posted: Wed Aug 13th, 2008 02:34 am |
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Larry-
I just looked at the top of my heater. It looks like they used the optional top mounted T&P valve : http://www.hotwater.com/lit/spec/res_gas/AOSRG45300.pdf
The cold water inlet is going through the valve into the anode spot. Is that usual?
There is another opening indented way over at the edge on the top of the heater with a plastic cap.
Does this complicate the process of changing the anode?
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eleent Member
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Posted: Wed Aug 13th, 2008 05:13 am |
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Hello: It is likely the GE heater had a magnesium anode ... and a recirc line without a working check valve could easily put sediment into the plumbing.
About hookups on top of the tank; cold coming in must go into a dip tube which delivers cold water to the bottom of the tank. Hot can come out of a normal pipe nipple or from a nipple that is combined with an anode. Ports on top of the tank may be used in various ways as they are basically only threaded openings. That plastic plug over on the edge of the top is likely where foam was injected during manufacture and is of no use for things plumbing 
Yours, Larry
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