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heaterissue
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| Joined: | Tue Aug 26th, 2008 |
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Posted: Tue Aug 26th, 2008 08:51 am |
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Hello I am having an issue with my water heater.
It is a dual element 40 gallon Rheem 3500 watt elements.
The issue is I have no hot water.
One problem I see is that I only get 120v to the top screws above the tstat. Or anywhere else for that matter. I don't know if this is the problem or if it has always been like this. I do get 240 volt at the circuit breakers (dual 20amp).
So I do have power (120 though) all the way to the top element (havent checked the bottom since I have no hot water at all)
Also I have 17 ohms resistence between the screws on the top element. Also tested both element screws to ground and didnt get anything at all.
Im not sure what could be the issue at this point?
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elenano
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Posted: Tue Aug 26th, 2008 03:15 pm |
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The 120 is normal, as electrics only operate one element at a time. For the rest, since you know how to use a multimeter, I'd suggest you go to Tanklets, look at Electric Water Heater Issues, and do the walk-through shown there.
Randy Schuyler
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heaterissue
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Posted: Tue Aug 26th, 2008 03:30 pm |
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I used the information in the Electric Water Heater Issues to do my troubleshooting. Which is why I was curious I was only seeing 120v at the upper element since the guide said I should be seeing around 240v.
There is nothing in the guide about what to do if there is voltage to the element and both element tests succeed.
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eleent
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Posted: Tue Aug 26th, 2008 03:47 pm |
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Hello: In your first post you say you have 120 volts above the thermostat and 240 at the breakers. That leaves only the junction box at the top of the heater as a place where there could be a bad connection. Have a look there and see if you get 240 coming in. Redo the connections there and test again above the high limit (red button) to see if you now get 240 volts. Do let us know 
Yours, Larry
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heaterissue
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Posted: Tue Aug 26th, 2008 04:04 pm |
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I will check the junction box. Thanks.
But since I am getting some power shouldnt it heat the element although just slower? Is it possible the element is bad even though there is no short and it has the correct resistance?
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energyexpert
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Posted: Tue Aug 26th, 2008 06:06 pm |
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In checking voltage at top element, did you check across the element (screw to screw) or screw to ground? In order to have power dissipated you have to have a voltage drop across a circuit. You could read 120 volts to ground on each side of the element but if the element is good will read zero across it.
As Randy said since WH thermostats normally only break one leg of the circuit, if you read screw to ground you will still have 120 volts (but zero across the element).
David
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heaterissue
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Posted: Tue Aug 26th, 2008 06:23 pm |
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I tested both
Screw to screw was zero. Each screw to ground was 120v. Ok so that is good then.
It fixed now. I opened the junction box and redid the wire connectors. Turned the breaker back on and I could hear it doing something (it was silent before).
Waited ten minutes and I had water.
I don't really get it as I had voltage before and after I messed with the cables
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energyexpert
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Posted: Wed Aug 27th, 2008 01:31 pm |
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It sounds like you had a bad joint in the junction box which you fixed. 120 volts to a WH on one wire (and no neutral) gives you nothing. 120 volts to the WH on one wire and a neutral will work but only at 25% output. 240 volts potential between two wires gives you full nameplate output.
David
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