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| Heat Pump Water Heaters - GE vs. Rheem | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sun Aug 8th, 2010 09:45 pm |
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21st Post |
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eleent Member 
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Hello: Do read through the entire post. If the Rheem anode really is "non-replaceable", I'd wait for them to fix that design flaw before buying one. Yours, Larry
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| Posted: Sun Aug 15th, 2010 06:20 pm |
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22nd Post |
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professorltd Member
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I ended up buying the GE model from Lowes. I was able to wrangle a 20% discount out of them and also bought the extra 11 year warranty. Out the door the with taxes and warranty was $1317.35 The extended warranty was only $80 and added 11 years onto the 10 year GE warranty, can't beat a 21 year warranty on a water heater...
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| Posted: Tue Aug 24th, 2010 03:08 am |
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23rd Post |
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dave brode Member
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All, Newbie here. I'm yearning for one too. Here's another heatpump water heater, which is remote. Good for options on where you want to cool/dehumidify. Afaik, 115CV only though. Dumb imo. http://www.northrdt.com/Geyser/Geyser_Inquiry_Form.html Dave
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| Posted: Wed Aug 25th, 2010 05:27 pm |
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24th Post |
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mediaman Member
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Was wondering which Lowes store you went to for the 20% discount...
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| Posted: Sat Aug 28th, 2010 05:06 pm |
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25th Post |
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HOTH2OLOVER Member 
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It seems to me that these units will work much better in a warm weather environment. The recovery is a concern for me. If you live in a 4 season area with cold winters, and have a family with teenagers that love to shower longer, the physics suggests long recovery periods.... and strong potential to run out of hot water until the unit recovers. just my two cents.
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| Posted: Sat Aug 28th, 2010 05:33 pm |
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26th Post |
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Hman127 Member
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I think the application for these is for those who want to save energy and money, and although those with a family may want a larger unit, since there are some now in the 60 to 80 gallon range. Also they have given settings such as high demand mode which operates at 1.5 EF which is still better than a regular water heater, and the electric only feature for times when demand is highest, like when you have guest's at home or a party.
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| Posted: Sat Aug 28th, 2010 06:22 pm |
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27th Post |
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HOTH2OLOVER Member
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Hman, Your point is well taken. My basic "Rule of Thumb" on all of the new equipment that has beening hitting the domestic hot water market is to look at the physics, praticality, and the investment vs paybacks, with consideration to locality. There are so many manufactures that see a new market and they rush to market with the "Sexiness" of green. Many times the general public has very little insight of how this equipment works and the draw backs. With the Green Movement / LEED's approach, the rule of praticality has to be applied. For 2000.00 as a budget, there are a tremendous amount of options. just my 2-1/2 cents...
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| Posted: Sat Aug 28th, 2010 10:48 pm |
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28th Post |
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Hman127 Member
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Yes this is true. I have'nt seen too many advertisements for these except the GE. I think the other companies are sitting back and waiting to see If there is a jump on these. Some of the others are probably Builder/Contractor based such as Stiebel, A O Smith, etc. there are some interesting info on Heat Pump Water Heaters on the energy star website. My interest is will It save me money, be reliable, and work well. I myself don't have a high demand for hot water so I feel this will work well for my family, but for high demand such as showers and laundry at the same time It would not be my choice.
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| Posted: Thu Sep 9th, 2010 05:00 am |
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29th Post |
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jamec9869 Member
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Thankyou both for sharing what you've learned! I like being brought up to speed
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| Posted: Thu Sep 9th, 2010 06:46 am |
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30th Post |
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Admin Administrator
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This is from Randy Schuyler in the capacity of Admin. Very nice message, Jamec9869. Just don't leave links in the message that could be construed as baldfaced advertising for another site, or I'll delete them, like I did here. If it goes on, I'll delete you, as well. You get one warning. This is it. Admin
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| Posted: Thu Sep 9th, 2010 06:59 pm |
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31st Post |
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Stephenopolus Member
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As far as who makes what goes...I can tell you that GE Appliance Park in Louisville Kentucky, is getting 400 new jobs so they can make the hybrid water heater (and a few other appliances) there starting fall 2011. Currently it is assembled by a subcontractor in China but it is a totally different water heater than the Rheem. The other GE water heaters are re-branded Rheems. It will be interesting to see if the compressor issues will go away when they start assembling them in the US. My two-cents-worth 
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| Posted: Fri Sep 10th, 2010 05:58 pm |
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32nd Post |
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kpauley Member
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This is all great information, I've started looking at these and this has been very helpful. For me (in California) I have a potential credit of $30 from PG&E plus the Federal Tax Credit and there is the new Cash For Appliances credit that became available (another $300 back!). Unfortunately, they only have one of these in their list of qualifying water heaters, the GE brand one. That limits my choice in a big way. I'm not saying I don't necessarily want the GE one, it would just be nice to have some choices. Anyone know anything different about this program, maybe already tried to get the rebate on a different brand? Wanted to make sure people were aware of this program if they are in California in any case.
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| Posted: Fri Sep 10th, 2010 06:13 pm |
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33rd Post |
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kpauley Member
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I had a question....I remembered that I have a powered anode rod, I purchased it from Water Heater Rescue back in 2008, never used it because I couldn't get my old one out. If I buy the GE unit, which does have a replaceable anode rod, will it fit? I have the SKU15 one for hex head anodes. If it will fit, would I be best of replacing it as soon as I install this new one, or wait until the one it has wears out? Ken
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| Posted: Fri Sep 10th, 2010 06:45 pm |
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34th Post |
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elenano Member
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The powered anode will definitely replace the factory anode. The bigger question is whether all that stuff on top of the heaters will get in the way of the powered anode hex nut, or vice versa. What is inside the housing on top? On the other hand, I'm surprised you're considering an electric, since you're in California. The utility rate structure here is very much against electric water heaters. If you did buy one, though, and it could accommodate the powered anode, I'd put that in immediately if you are softening, and keep the factory anode to put back in case the tank fails under warranty. Randy Schuyler Last edited on Fri Sep 10th, 2010 06:46 pm by elenano |
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| Posted: Fri Sep 10th, 2010 07:35 pm |
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35th Post |
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kpauley Member
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Well, the current water heater we have is electric and we're in a rural area that is serviced by propane. Nothing in our old house currently runs on propane, so I have a tank and am not using it at all. My thinking was that if I converted to propane, I'd need to plumb the line as well as some new venting for the flue (not a huge deal, the water heater is in an area where that can be done easily enough). Rebates on the propane tanks aren't that great and the units may not be as efficient. Propane costs can vary quite a bit as well. So I wasn't thinking in the end it might be that great of a tradeoff. That said, I'm open to other thoughts, this was based on some very high level initial research. If the return on my investment to go propane on the water heater was good, I'd go that way, I'm not against it (had it in our last house), I just maybe haven't figured out the right way to calculate it?
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| Posted: Fri Sep 10th, 2010 11:12 pm |
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36th Post |
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elenano Member
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Can't argue with that logic! There are places around here that only have electrics, too, for the same reasons. Larry has a propane heater. I'll leave it to him to answer that question. Randy Schuyler
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| Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 01:44 pm |
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37th Post |
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Schieftain Member
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Hey Folks, another newbie here with some questions on the GE Geospring regarding the cold basement issue. We live in central-PA, up on a mountain, and our basement gets down to 48 degrees in late November and stays there for about 5 months. Would this unit lower the surrounding air temp below the 45 degree threshold and put it into standard electric mode? If so, what's the EEF in that mode? I'm trying to figure out if I would have a longer payback time. $1600 (current price at Lowes here) is a lot more than $472 (for a Bradford White with EEF of .93). The savings with the GE Hybrid in heat-pump-only mode is substantial, but if I'm only getting that for 7 months out of the year, is this going to take about 5 years to pay for itself?
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| Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 05:17 pm |
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38th Post |
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energyexpert Member
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I'd say you would get to 45F fairly quickly and the WH would go to the normal mode of heating. Worse case is you use all of your daily hot water in a very short amount of time. On the other hand usage spread out uniformly over 24 hours would give time for ambient heat to soak into the basement so you would get more heat from the heat pump and less from the resistance elements. http://www.aers.com has a stand alone heat pump. If you couples this to a large preheat storage tank ahead of a WH then the heat pump could run whenever the temperature permissive was met and add heat to the preheat tank. David
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| Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 05:22 pm |
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39th Post |
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energyexpert Member
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Sorry the http://www.aers.com link doesn't work. AO Smith has acquired or is acquiring AERS. http://hpac.com/plumbing-piping-pumping/smith-acquires-heat-pump-water-heater-0409/ David
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| Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 05:34 pm |
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40th Post |
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energyexpert Member
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Once more: Applied Energy Recovery Systems, Inc. 6670-A Corners Industrial Court Norcross, GA 30067 United States Tel: 1/770-734-9696
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