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 Posted: Thu Feb 25th, 2010 04:50 pm
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bryankwalton
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Hi guys,

So, I've been reading on this site and others about hard/soft water and the issues as they relate to water heaters.  I understand that softeners help reduce sediment which can help to reduce scaling and deposits, etc.  I also understand that overly softened water can speed up consumption of the anode rod.  So . . .

Specifically, is the increase in the rate of anode rod degradation due to there being no hardness, or is it because of there being too much sodium in the water?  For example, if the hardness of water coming into the house was measured at 15 grains per gallon and was reduced through softening to 4 grains per gallon, this would leave the hardness withing your preferred range of 50-120 ppm (4 grains per gallon = 68.5 ppm).

 However, if the water entering the house has a hardness of 30 grains per gallon and was softened to 4 grains per gallon, the amount of remaining hardness would be the same as in the first example.  But the level of sodium in the water would be double that of the first example.

So, this leads me to believe that the increased consumption of the anode rod in overly softened water must be related to the hardness and not the sodium levels.  Is this correct?

Thanks,
Bryan

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 Posted: Thu Feb 25th, 2010 10:37 pm
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elenano
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The direct cause is salt. I can't remember the technological explanation relating to your theory, but salt increases conductivity and anode consumption. Natural hardness also increases conductivity and without it, an anode won't work well or at all. But more salt, more consumption. This we've seen in the field, as opposed to theory.

Randy Schuyler

Last edited on Thu Feb 25th, 2010 10:38 pm by elenano

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 Posted: Fri Feb 26th, 2010 12:42 am
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bryankwalton
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So, if the direct cause is salt, then rather than recommend that 50-120 ppm of hardness remain, shouldn't the recommendation be that only X ppm of hardness should be taken away?

Thanks for your reply,
Bryan

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 Posted: Fri Feb 26th, 2010 09:17 pm
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bryankwalton
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The other question as it relates to this, is how does one only partially soften their water? The process involves calcium and magnesium ions being attracted to the resin and in their place, sodium ions being added to the water. So, as long as one's softener is functioning with salt and not in need of being regenerated, then in theory all of the "hard" ions are being pulled from the water. The only way I know to prevent this process from happening is to have a softener that is overdue for regeneration (which would mean water not being softened at all), or for the system to be in bypass (also water not being softened at all). Once the system regenerates, of course, then the water is being fully softened again. I'm not aware of a way to soften the water to a pre-determined level of hardness unless there is an adjustable bypass valve that allows some water to go to through the softener and some to not. Of course, then the two separate flows would need to reunite before entering the water heater tank.

Thanks for your input.
-Bryan

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 Posted: Sat Feb 27th, 2010 08:34 am
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eleent
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Hello:  In answer to two questions; calcium hardness in the water is actually good for plumbing if not excessive.  The 60 to 120 ppm suggestion comes from the National Assn. of Corrosion Engineers.  Reduction should be to this level, not based on amount of hardness removed as its purpose is to protect plumbing while delivering usable water. 

To the question of softening; modern softeners do have the ability to be adjusted to a given level of output.  Also, as you suggest, it's possible to pipe in an adjustable bypass to mix untreated water with softened to get the right degree of hardness.

Yours,  Larry

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 Posted: Sat Feb 27th, 2010 11:55 am
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bryankwalton
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Thanks Larry,

I'll talk to our softener guy to see if we can get such an adjustable bypass valve for our softener.

Thanks!
Bryan

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