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| T and P Valve Relocation on GE SG50T12TXK00 | Rating: 
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| Posted: Sat Jun 12th, 2010 11:14 pm |
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1st Post |
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mini14 Member
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Greetings, This is my first post here and it appears to be a very helpful site. My old water heater rusted out completely and I replaced it myself without any major issues. I am now in the process of getting the installation up to code in order to have it inspected. I purchased a GE sg50t12txk00 (although I might have gotten a different model after reading the advice here) It has the T and P Valve high on the side. The previous water heater had the valve on the top. Is it possible to relocate the T and P valve to the top? I'm not sure if the new heater supports a top mounted valve; it doesn't appear to. There are only two plastic covers, the vent, inlet, outlet, and anode. The reason I want to relocate the valve is that the piping for the discharge is for the valve on top and the work to relocate the piping will be significantly more work than relocating the valve (if possible). Thanks, Steve
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| Posted: Mon Jun 14th, 2010 12:23 am |
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2nd Post |
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undee70ss Member 
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mini14 wrote: The previous water heater had the valve on the top. Is it possible to relocate the T and P valve to the top? I'm not sure if the new heater supports a top mounted valve; it doesn't appear to. There are only two plastic covers, the vent, inlet, outlet, and anode. Short answer, no.
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| Posted: Mon Jun 14th, 2010 12:24 am |
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3rd Post |
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eleent Member 
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Hello: You have the cold inlet, hot outlet and anode ports to work with. The cold inlet can't be messed with as you want the dip tube in place. It is possible to put a combo anode, that is hot outlet and anode combined in the hot port and replace the hex plug anode with the relief valve. This would allow the relief to drain down as it should. An old fix for this sort of problem was to put a brass "T" in the hot outlet, directly on top of the outlet nipple and leave one side of the "T" up so you could put a relief valve in that top port. You would then hook up the hot outlet line in the side port. It would be best to have a relief valve with a special long temperature probe if you do this. A third way is to put a combo anode where the present anode is and put a brass coupling on top, followed by a standard relief valve. That approach is less common. Anyway, you have choices. I do wonder with all that if it wouldn't be too much more trouble to lower the line from the relief valve, patch sheetrock and be done with it.  Yours, Larry
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| Posted: Mon Jun 14th, 2010 01:03 am |
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4th Post |
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mini14 Member
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I appreciate the replies--it sounds like I will have to change the piping... Can the discharge from the valve go up at all or does it have to go horizontal and down? That is, can I route the discharge up to the current piping? Thanks, Steve
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| Posted: Mon Jun 14th, 2010 02:44 am |
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5th Post |
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elenano Member
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It is not that simple. The only way you could use a combo rod would be if you installed one of Rheem's "warranty in a box" half-length combos, and those are only available through a plumber. Any standard one, and you will have not water pressure, due to the way the tank was designed. And you wouldn't want to only have a half-length anode in the tank. I think the long answer is no, too. I've done this kind of thing myself, where I realize if I'd thought about it a little sooner, I could have done something different. Often manufacturers have some heaters that have optional ports on both top and side specifically to address this issue. Randy Schuyler
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| Posted: Mon Jun 14th, 2010 07:42 am |
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6th Post |
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eleent Member
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Hello: Code is pretty specific on this, the line from the relief valve needs to drain so water isn't trapped in it. There cannot be more than four 90 degree bends and it must stay full size (3/4"). Rheem is different than other manufacturers in that it's ports can be deeper and restrict flow from a normal combo anode. So, you do have choices, but the best fix is to get the drain line right. Another meddlesome thought I just had is to raise up the heater if you have room for it  Yours, Larry
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| Posted: Mon Jun 14th, 2010 09:43 pm |
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7th Post |
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mini14 Member
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Raising the heater is an interesting thought and I like it. However, it won't work in my particular situation so I will be moving the current discharge piping. Thanks to everyone who responded. Steve
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| Posted: Fri Jul 23rd, 2010 11:51 pm |
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8th Post |
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sky_tech Member
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I'm confused; what prevents him from either: 1) Removing the dedicated anode and installing some sort of combo anode with the T&P on top, or 2) Installing a T&P with a long probe on a Tee into the hot water outlet. Understand, I have book knowledge only on this as I have never personally worded with a combo anode and am still a bit fuzzy on the particulars of what gets in the way with what. Last edited on Fri Jul 23rd, 2010 11:52 pm by sky_tech |
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| Posted: Sat Jul 24th, 2010 02:58 am |
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9th Post |
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elenano Member
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Either thing might be possible, but it's a little tricky, too. The probe really needs to be inside the tank, and on any kind of combo, it is going to have to be mounted on top of a tee screwed onto the combo. The probe might not extend far enough, but if it does, it's also going to reduce the water flow from the combo, which is moderately reduced already, relative to what you get out of a three-quarter-inch nipple. Again, because only a special Rheem half-length combo will work in the hot port, if you use that, you've just reduced the amount of anode in the tank by half and probably voided the warranty, since quantity of anode matters a lot. Finally, he's looking for a way to avoid work, and all this is going to be as much work or more as simply redirecting the drain line. Randy Schuyler
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| Posted: Sat Jul 24th, 2010 04:15 am |
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10th Post |
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Jeeter Member
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You might be able to replace your anode with a combination anode/T&P valve. kscdirect.com sells one made by Bradford White for $30.09. It is part number BRD 243-42492-00. It's a 3/4" diameter by 38" long magnesium rod, described as a Secondary Anode with T & P Valve. It would be secondary if you also had a standard combo rod in your hot water outlet port. (I've also seen the part number given as 239-42492-00, but I believe that is a mistake.) Good luck, John
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| Posted: Sat Jul 24th, 2010 04:42 am |
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11th Post |
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sky_tech Member
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Beat me to it - I was just getting ready to post the same suggestion. Here is a link: http://kscdirect.com/item/BRD%2B243-42492-00/BRADFORD Also, while Randy is right that you need to get the probe in deep enough (which presumably the Bradford part does), I would think you don't need to worry about the combo anode reducing the flow, as it's going under the T&P, where massive flow is not an issue. You just need flow enough to relieve the pressure, and I would think the flow through a combo anode fitting is okay for that since they routinely put them in the hot outlet and still have lots of flow. Last edited on Sun Jul 25th, 2010 01:52 am by sky_tech |
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| Posted: Sat Jul 24th, 2010 10:39 pm |
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12th Post |
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mini14 Member
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So is the 38" length the same as the anode I would be replacing? My understanding is that the current anode is magnesium (I believe this is a Rheem that is just badged by GE) but I don't know the length. I'm not sure if there is an anode associated with the outlet, but that should not make a difference. Thanks, Steve
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| Posted: Sun Jul 25th, 2010 12:51 am |
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13th Post |
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Jeeter Member
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Replacing your anode with a longer one should pose no problem if your tank will accommodate it. I don't know the length of the hex anode you'd be replacing, but 38" is a respectable length, and you can cut some off the bottom with a hack saw if necessary to make it fit. Let's hope you don't have to because you want all the magnesium you can get to prolong rusting of your tank. And that is why you might consider adding a combo anode to the hot port. From Randy's comment above, I gather that your heater does not come with one and that the only one that will fit is half the normal length. That means it could be a fine supplement but not an adequate alternative to your orginal full length hex anode or its anode/T&P valve replacement. I don't know whether 38" refers to the length of the magnesium rod or the overall length including the T&P valve, but I'll soon know because I have ordered one for my own water heater (which is back ordered). Aside from the T&P valve and possibly the length, this anode rod is probably exactly the same as the magnesium hex anode you'd be replacing. I may have to cut some off my new anode because I've ordered a short water heater, and I'm wondering about just tossing the scrap end into the tank loose (clunk). Or better, perhaps I could cut through only the magnesium and leave the core (which I believe is a stainless steel cable) intact. That would leave the end of the rod flexible and retrievable. I'd welcome feedback on that idea. Maybe that loose end swirling around in the bottom of the tank would damage the glass coating. What to do with the nice unused hex anode that you might be replacing? Maybe you could auction it off on Ebay, but I'm wondering, why not just cut off the hex head and toss the rest of the rod into the tank loose? Or maybe tie it somehow to the new anode for later retrieval. Why not buy half a dozen anodes and just toss 'em all in loose. Somebody, stop me, please... John Last edited on Sun Jul 25th, 2010 01:05 am by Jeeter |
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| Posted: Sun Jul 25th, 2010 01:50 am |
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14th Post |
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sky_tech Member
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An anode only works if it is electrically connected to the tank, thus tossing in loose segments will not help. However, deeply notching an extra-long anode to allow the end to bend so it fits in a short tank might actually give you some benefit.
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| Posted: Mon Jul 26th, 2010 06:25 am |
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15th Post |
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eleent Member
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Hello: I think the only thing for me to comment on here is the thinking behind having a relief valve. It's a lot more than just pressure relief. For temperature relief, it needs to be able to flow enough water to keep the tank at a safe temperature should the burner not shut off. A Watts 100XL is good for a heater up to 100,000 BTUs, but any serious restrictions in the line, (either built in or caused in time by demon rust) need to be considered so the valve will be able to perform as designed and flush enough hot water out of the tank (and cold water in) to keep it from rocketing away. Thanks for the link to the anode relief valve goodie. I'd like to see what it really looks like Yours, Larry
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| Posted: Mon Jul 26th, 2010 04:24 pm |
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16th Post |
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Jeeter Member
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That price of $30 for the combination anode/T&P valve was too good to be true. They've upped the price to $78.52, $90.14 with shipping. John
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