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 Posted: Wed Jul 21st, 2010 04:31 pm
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Wenonah
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I have a GE SmartWater heater model #SE50M12AAH that is spitting and boiling hot. We lowered the thermostat last evening and still hot. Today we are draining tank and only cold water comes out even tho we turned off the supply.
Re closed drain and turned hot water kitchen faucet and still scalding hot available. Re-opened drain and only cold water comes out
What to do next??
Thanks

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 Posted: Thu Jul 22nd, 2010 05:48 am
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elenano
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Just curious: is this an electric heater or a gas one?

Randy Schuyler

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 Posted: Thu Jul 22nd, 2010 05:54 pm
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eleent
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Hello:  I believe this is a conventional two element electric.  Why did it overheat and why didn't the high limit cut off power?  If you look in tanklets here: http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Troubleshooting/Tanklets/electric-water-heater-issues.html  you will likely find out the answers!  :cool:

Yours,  Larry

ps, Do turn off power to the unit at the breakers until it's figured out.  It's unsafe now as it is.

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 Posted: Fri Jul 23rd, 2010 03:05 am
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Wenonah
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Electric and has an upper and lower heating element.

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 Posted: Fri Jul 23rd, 2010 11:19 pm
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sky_tech
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Your link to the forum posting accidentally ended up with a space in the underlying embedded link.  Should be:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Troubleshooting/Tanklets/electric-water-heater-issues.html

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 Posted: Tue Sep 14th, 2010 07:02 pm
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hippowolf
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I had something happen the other day that seems similar to this. My hot water was way hotter than normal, and I did not think much of it because I was so busy. Well today I find that I have no hot water. I was thinking that the upper limit needs reset, and that their is a bigger problem. After reading this I imagine that I have a leaking element that shorted out the limit and then the thermostat. I obviously won't know until I open it tonight, but does this logic make sense to you experienced guys?

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 Posted: Tue Sep 14th, 2010 11:23 pm
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energyexpert
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The thermostats only open one leg of power.  If you develop a element sheath crack you then have a path of continuity to ground so heating continues but at a much slower rate.  After several hours of no usage temperature can reach the ECO (red button) setpoint.  The ECO interrupts both legs of power.  Now you could have a thermostat which failed to open but a failing element is more likely.  You did not short out the ECO; it just reached its setpoint and did its job.  Usually the ECO can be reset but occasionally will not reset.

Turning off power and checking the WH with a volt-ohm meter (see Electric WH Issues under Tanklets) is much better than just guessing and throwing money on parts.  Also read up on the anode.  The anode is the life of the heater.  Anodes available from this site.

David

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