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Burner goes out on Whirlpool FG1F3030S3NOV  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Mon Apr 25th, 2011 09:13 pm
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darels
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Hi all, I've reviewed about 15 pages and haven't come across this yet.

I have a Whirlpool FG1F3030S3NOV, natural gas water heater.  Beginning yesterday, the burner and pilot went out.   I can light the pilot, no problem, and the burner lights when I turn it on.  The burner runs for 30-45 seconds, then there's a click in the valve and everything shuts off.

I've watched the burner flame, it looks good, nice and even and blue.  I've checked the draft at the vent, it pulls well.  I've seen some other brands recommended to clean the intake filter, but from what I can tell this heater doesn't have one.  I have vacuumed/dusted underneath.

Note that his heater does NOT have the Flame Lock/thermal switch that some Whirlpool models do.  There's no sign of leaking, obviously the water temperature isn't getting too high in 30-40 seconds.

I picked up a new valve/thermostat at Lowe's, in anticipation of replacing the existing one.  I would rather not do that if anyone has any other suggestions.

Thanks,
Darel Snodgrass
Memphis

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 Posted: Tue Apr 26th, 2011 02:42 am
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Ej
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It sounds like you have a short in the thermocouple. This has happened to me several times in the field. Try replacing it before you replace your valve.

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 Posted: Tue Apr 26th, 2011 05:52 pm
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darels
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Well, I had the tools and the time, and I really wanted to take a hot shower, so I replaced the valve anyway.  Interestingly, I had to also replace the thermocouple anyway, since the old one was LH thread and the new valve accepted RH. 

I wouldn't have suspected the thermocouple, since the pilot light stayed lit.  I guess the short would only have showed up after the combustion chamber got up to temp?

Since I had to pull the burner, I got to inspect/vacuum the combustion chamber (which really looked fine, actually). 

So, it only cost me about $53 for the valve and $8 for the thermocouple, and I'm confident the heater should last a few more years anyway.

Thanks for this forum - good stuff!
Darel

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 Posted: Tue Apr 26th, 2011 07:07 pm
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elenano
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If you've gotten that far, you really ought to check the anode rod, too. The burner chamber would only show trouble when it was too late to fix it.

Randy Schuyler

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 Posted: Wed Apr 27th, 2011 02:06 am
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Ej
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I would immediately turn your water heater off and call Whirlpool to send you out a door enhancement recall kit. Left hand thermocouples where recalled and replaced by a whole new FVIR door/burner kit. So what you have done is bypassed the safety device by installing a conventional valve and thermocouple. If your original problem failure was caused by combustion air or flue blockage and went unnoticed then using your water heater will place you and your family in danger and possibly harms way. Do not use your heater until you call American. This should be covered under a special warranty.

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 Posted: Thu Apr 28th, 2011 08:03 am
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eleent
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This is why I'm really glad Ej and people like him take the time to chime in here!  He/they have the specialized know how and willingness to share it.  No one person can know it all, but together we get a lot closer ;)  Who knows, some nastiness may have been averted.

Yours,  Larry

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 Posted: Sat Aug 6th, 2011 09:14 pm
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DEE
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I have a similar problem my water hearter is a Whirlpool Natural gas With the Flame Lock Safety System, It will light but as soon as I release the red gas control temp knob the flame will go out. When it is lit the burner burns clean and there is no air or leaks. I am thinking it is the Thermal switch I have tried to reset it but the button will not depress. Can someone give me a suggestion, before I spend too much money?

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 Posted: Sun Aug 7th, 2011 12:35 am
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Ej
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For testing purpose only you can bypass the thermal switch to see if this is the problem. You can put the white and black wires together. To me it sounds more like a bad thermocouple. This unit takes a standard thermocouple you can find at Home Depot.

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