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thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com > Forums > The Tank > 4 gallon (or less) point of use w/ your powered anode rod? |
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thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com > Forums > The Tank > 4 gallon (or less) point of use w/ your powered anode rod? |
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| 4 gallon (or less) point of use w/ your powered anode rod? | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sun Aug 28th, 2011 08:05 pm |
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1st Post |
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mikef135 Member
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Hello, It's been just over a year since I installed your powered anode rod in my new (at the time) 50 gallon Whirlpool gas water heater. No problems so far in conjunction with my water softener. I'm happy with this solution. At the same time I bought a regular anode rod replacement for my 4 gallon Artisan water heater. I recently noticed it leaking and today decided to check the state of the anode rod and drain the heater. Sure enough it was falling apart. So my goal is to get a small point of use water heater with a powered anode rod that I can just set and forget like the main water heater (in conjunction with the water softener). Questions: 1) Could the Artisan model be adapted somehow to use the powered anode rod? It only has a T&P valve on the top of it that may be able to be used somehow but not sure. 2) I see they have GE models at Home Depot online ... not sure what ports on top of these though. Any ideas on a solution here? Thanks, -Mike
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| Posted: Mon Aug 29th, 2011 02:55 am |
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2nd Post |
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eleent Member 
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Hello: I think Randy will need to respond, but if he were to measure the un-extended length of a powered anode, that would be the minimum height of your replacement heater. From there you could determine heater gallons/size. Yours, Larry
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| Posted: Mon Aug 29th, 2011 03:03 am |
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3rd Post |
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elenano Member
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That is exactly the issue. The powered anode is good from 12 to 55 inches. If your 4-gallon tank is shorter than that, the powered anode is not going to work. As to how to install it, that depends on two things: where the factory anode is installed and plumbing. Really small heaters sometimes have the anode on the bottom of the tank and plumbing coming out the side. If you have a hot-water outlet coming out of the top, the powered anode can be used with a tee and nipples. If it's coming out the bottom or side, that won't work. If the anode is screwed into the bottom of the heater, that won't work either. The powered anode has to hang straight down from somewhere above the heater. Randy Schuyler
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| Posted: Mon Aug 29th, 2011 03:50 am |
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4th Post |
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eleent Member
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Hello: For fun, I went to AO Smith to see their offerings. They have a six gallon (ejc 6) that could work. AO Smith is at http://www.hotwater.com, but I'm having no luck getting a link to work  Look up the spec sheet for this heater. I would want to actually check with a tape measure before buying it.  Yours, Larry Last edited on Mon Aug 29th, 2011 04:01 am by eleent |
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| Posted: Mon Aug 29th, 2011 05:12 am |
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5th Post |
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mikef135 Member
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Thanks guys. It looks like home depot has similar looking GE units that I could test out and return if necessary. I see they have a 2.5 gallon GE unit that is 14" high and a 6 gallon that is 15.25" (same as AO one). If the bottom of the powered anode rod did hit the bottom of the tank could a longer pipe be used on the top of the tank to increase the distance to the bottom? How far away does the powered anode rod need to be from the electric element? This may be another issue. Thanks, -Mike
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| Posted: Mon Oct 24th, 2011 10:50 pm |
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6th Post |
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mikef135 Member
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Alright, finally picked up the 6 gallon GE unit at home depot. To get at the anode rod on top I had to remove the metal top, 5 screws and some insulation. The insulation just lifted right out, not the fully molded type. Below that was a standard hex head anode rod but only 10" long. Pulled that out and measured from the top of the threads to the bottom of the tank at 12 1/16". I have a hole press that I can use to stick a hole in the cover for the powered anode rod. See any issues here? Ready to buy another powered anode rod if this will work. Thanks, -Mike
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| Posted: Tue Oct 25th, 2011 03:26 am |
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7th Post |
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elenano Member
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You're right at the limit, you know, but I think it's OK. You're using a softener, so sediment shouldn't be an issue. Do be aware I ran out of powered anodes today, but I should have some more at week's end. Randy Schuyler PS -- I'm not answering the direct e-mail, since I did it here.
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| Posted: Tue Oct 25th, 2011 04:32 am |
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8th Post |
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mikef135 Member
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Thanks, I'll put in my order now and hopefully it will be alright. I should get some additional lift I think from the coupling and nipple. Worst case I could use a longer nipple to get the weight higher ... I think the only requirement is the weight not resting on the bottom of the tank, right? Or does it also have to do with how much wire extends into the tank for protection purposes? Suspect I may void the warranty by sticking a hole in the sheet metal top but oh well. I could just tape new insulation on top and store the top away perhaps but leaning toward putting a hole in it. The home depot people probably wouldn't know/care it was altered if I had to make a return anyway!
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| Posted: Tue Oct 25th, 2011 06:34 am |
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9th Post |
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elenano Member
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The warranty thing depends a lot on the maker. If you don't compromise the tank integrity, it may not void the warranty, but I tend to advise people on the more conservative side. The weight is insulated, so if it lies on the bottom, not a big deal, but if the electrode lands there, not so good. Randy Schuyler
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| Posted: Mon Oct 31st, 2011 02:55 am |
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10th Post |
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mikef135 Member
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I ended up returning the GE 6 gallon model. After I punched the hole in the cover I realized the unit was 2000W and I only allowed for a 1500W unit on the circuit I am using, doh! The artisan one was only 1500W. So not surprisingly home depot didn't even bother to look at my modification and just stuck it back on the shelf! One nice thing about big box stores! Took a trip to lowes (a bit farther away for me) and found a 6 gallon whirlpool model that is 1500W. I didn't have to punch a hole in the top of this one but I had to extract a plastic grommet around the anode rod using a razor knife, screwdriver for prying, and some pliers to finally extract it out! Even then I could just barely get the socket around the rod due to crappy alignment of the hole. Got it out and measured 12.5 inches so still just fine. I think the whirlpool looks to be a better unit though for the same price and lower current draw is something to consider. Should have the new powered anode rod tomorrow so got all the other fittings on for this application (2x nipples, 2x reducer elbows (3/4" to 1/2"), 2x 1/2" nipples (to connect to under sink plumbing), a separate power cord good for the 1500W, wire nuts, and metal grommet for the power cord input. Looking forward to the finished solution! -Mike
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