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| 27 yr old heater. Am I wasting my time? | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sun Dec 11th, 2011 03:01 pm |
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1st Post |
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scottos Member
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Hello all, I have a 27 yr. old AO Smith Subchamber heater, flushed rarely and anode never replaced. The thermocouple went out last week, replaced and everything is OK. But it got me thinking of replacements. Off to the Google to get info and I find this site. I start thinking of fixing up the old thing instead of replacing. So far I have pulled the anode and of course there is nothing left. Pulled the dip tube, still in good shape. Put flash lite in anode port and eyeball in cold port and take a look. The tank looks pristine, still a blue tint on the subchamber. 2-3 inches of sediment/calcium. Made up a pvc flushing tube replaced drain valve w/ ball valve (per recommendation here) and started cleaning. Got the gunk cleaned up to maybe 1/4-1/2 inch left. Is it possible that the whole tank is in as good a condition as what I can see? Is it worth upgrading this? $22 for a curved dip tube. $45 for an anode, maybe $60 for the combo anode. Not sure the thermostat is function well, so $60+ for new gas valve, is the thermostat alone replaceable or is it the whole valve that gets replaced? So, any advice? Would this be a total waste of time and money? Thanks, Scott
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| Posted: Sun Dec 11th, 2011 05:03 pm |
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2nd Post |
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elenano Member 
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Get SKU33, the thickest anode I have -- provided you have 44 inches of overhead clearance and provided the old anode was a hex. If it's a hex but you don't have the clearance, you'll have to settle for SKU10, which is just as thick, but has significant gaps between the links, making it the equivalent of a .84-inch anode. Then wait one year. If the heater is still intact at that point, see what's left of the anode. If it is being consumed slowly, you can keep on with sacrificial or go with powered. If it's gone, go to powered. And then add the flush kit. This way, you don't spend too much if the tank is beyond hope, but it doesn't sound like that. I think I'm going to leave the thermostat question to my friend Larry. Ten years ago, I might have said, "replace it," but the new ones are more trouble than the old ones, so saving has more merit. Randy Schuyler
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| Posted: Sun Dec 11th, 2011 06:54 pm |
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3rd Post |
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eleent Member
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Hello: Regarding the thermostat, I'm not clear on just what it's dong wrong. It can "drift" over time, so the setting may look too high or low, but the real measure is what comes out of the tap. If it can be set where you like it and it doesn't vary too much, the thermostat is OK. Modern thermostats can have an even wider "dead band" (30 degrees) than older ones. I understand it's safer, but sure bothers folks to get into a shower in the morning that can't heat up to a comfortable temperature  Yours, Larry ps, You've got an efficient design. I would try to keep it going. Do make sure the combustion chamber is clean and has no debris in it.
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| Posted: Mon Dec 12th, 2011 11:32 am |
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4th Post |
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scottos Member
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Thanks Guys, First, Randy I'm the Scott that was emailing you last week. I have 41" of clearance so I'll need to go w/ the flex or can it be cut down? The existing one is only 36". Which would offer more protection, the flex or 41" solid? I think I'll need the flush dip tube now because I think the existing one is damaged now from removing and replacing it. The water gets cold very quickly. The wife isn't going to be happy with short showers  . As far as the thermostat goes, it seems there is a big swing before the heater cycles on. There is hot water so it does work. The other thing about it is when I first looked at it, there was some kind of a tip on it. After flushing the tip was gone, just a flat end left. I don't know if I damaged it or it was just gunk on the end.About the anode, are you saying that the slower the anode is consumed the less corrosion there is on the tank? If all is good in a year I guess I could invest in a combo anode and be done with it. The unit is supposedly very efficient, it still has the yellow energy tag on it. It shows an efficient heater will cost $185 (1984 rates) and this one will cost $181.I did clean the chamber when I changed the thermocouple. There is a steel plate that is half disintegrated that I'll have to attend to. I do think it's worth hanging on to. In one of the posts here, I think, one of you said that you have to keep the the new ones dusted to keep them working. I really don't want to dust my water heater, ya know. Scott Last edited on Mon Dec 12th, 2011 12:08 pm by scottos |
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| Posted: Mon Dec 12th, 2011 04:23 pm |
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5th Post |
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elenano Member
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It can be cut, and it's probably better (and cheaper, too) to use SKU33. Measure from the top to the drain valve and cut it two inches shorter than that and see if you can screw it in. If it won't go, cut more off, but don't make it 36 inches if you can make it longer. A new dip tube is a good idea. After 15-20 years in hot water, most dip tubes get brittle and break up. And you're right about the anode. If it isn't consumed very rapidly, that means there is not so much damage to the tank, but from what you described, I'll be surprised if there is much left after a year. Randy Schuyler
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| Posted: Tue Dec 13th, 2011 01:02 am |
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6th Post |
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sky_tech Member
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I had similar clearance, but instead of cutting off the end of the rod, I cut it partway through roughly 6" from the end so that I could bend the end to get it inserted. Then after the first few inches were in the tank, I straightened it out. The way the anode is made there is a wire in the center. Just cut part way through (almost to the wire) all the way around and then it becomes flexible. That's similar to what they do to make the segmented anode, but you're creating just one short segment at the end. Make the cut far enough from the end so the you can straighten it as you insert it (if you cut only 2 inches from the end you wont' be able to reach the bent part to straighten it back out because the notch will be down inside the tank at that point). And don't forget to have some exciting time with the leftover magnesium powder (think flares). BUT be careful playing with it and matches!
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