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 Posted: Mon Dec 19th, 2011 05:45 am
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tmonter
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I have a 40 Gallon powervent Rheem with a White/Rogers control panel on the front. This unit was installed in 2008.

It's a model GG40T06PVK00

It's been properly installed and operating for over 3 years now until last week. When I was on a trip for work , my wife mentioned that the control panel was showing lights and we had no hot water. I told here where to look for the code key and the heater indicated ignition failure.

I told her to unplug it and plug it back in and it started right up and fired up. In about a hour she said they had hot water again.

A few days later after I had been home the unit kicked off again. So I unplugged the unit let it reset and it worked again.

Now the unit is flashing ignition failure several times a day. I believe it's the gas solenoid because when it fails to light and go back through purge you can not hear the loud "click" from the gas valve opening. It's almost as if the valve just works intermittently.

Any suggestions when dealing with Rheem? I don't want to pay a plumber $250 to fix the damn thing when I know what is wrong.

I work on boilers for a living and am very familiar with natural gas and gas piping which is why I felt comfortable doing it myself.

I just want to know what I can do to have Rheem just send me the parts to fix it. If I have to call a plumber to fix this I know I'm going to be hundreds of dollars at least and who knows how long the fix will last.

My next heater will be a Bradford White, I won't go the cheap route again.

Last edited on Mon Dec 19th, 2011 05:45 am by tmonter

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 Posted: Tue Dec 20th, 2011 12:25 am
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tmonter
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Well I spoke with Rheem customer service this morning and from what I described they seemed to agree the solenoid/gas valve was the likely culprit and are sending me a new valve.

I'll keep everyone posted on how it goes when I get the part.

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 Posted: Tue Dec 20th, 2011 04:12 am
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LazyDevil
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I presume you mean the White-Rodgers Intelli-Vent control. We have quite a few of these in our townhouse association. A few have failed but with some evidence of line voltage surge problems. (Other electronics in the effected townhouses were damaged also.) After replacement gas controls were installed we added surge protectors to the outlets the water heaters were plugged in to. (Like the one pictured.)

No further problems have resulted. At a later time the same surge protection was added to all the water heaters with electronic controls.

In spite of this, admittedly anecdotal, susceptibility to power surges I like the White-Rodgers control. I like the fine control of water temperature, the diagnostic readout of the LEDs, and the elimination of a standing pilot.

Thanks in advance for keeping us posted of the outcome.

Chuck

Attachment: Surge.jpg (Downloaded 31 times)

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 Posted: Tue Dec 20th, 2011 06:04 am
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tmonter
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That's a good idea about the surge protector. I have a nice tripplite unit I'll install when I install the new control.

Honestly though I don't think it was a surge because the gas valve has gotten progressively worse over the last week. I think it's the mechanical parts inside the valve that are having issues. I suppose it could have been damage to the coil for the solenoid but that seems unlikely.

I too like the white rodgers control and especially am fond of the ignition rod rather than the typical pizieo-electric setup. It seems to be more reliable.

Being this is my second GE unit in 3 years I'm not real happy with this series of tank unit though.

Last edited on Tue Dec 20th, 2011 06:08 am by tmonter

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 Posted: Tue Dec 20th, 2011 11:15 pm
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Geno_3245
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Following link is a large file: Intellivent Service Manual

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 Posted: Tue Dec 20th, 2011 11:15 pm
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tmonter
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Got the new control today (they shipped it FedEx 1-day).

Drained the tank this afternoon and used compressed air to make it go a little faster.

Shut off the power, Gas and then took everything apart (basically unplugged the plugs into the control and unhooked the gas line to the burner). Unscrewed the whole control assembly from the tank and it was pretty stubborn to remove.

The gasket on the fresh water line was shot so I had to go buy a new flex line.

Put teflon sealant on on all the new threads and re-assembled everything.

Filled the tank first until water started running out of the hot side of the faucet.

Turned on the gas and bubble tested the connections and then powered the unit up and set the temp.

So far it has stayed lit and the tank is warming up.

I did notice a fair amount of scale in the tank (we have pretty hard water).

This spring I'd like to descale the heater and put in heat traps.

So far so good, I'll keep everyone posted on anything that develops.

*Well I'm about 8 hours after the repair and everything seems to be working so far. No ignition failures which leads me to believe my diagnosis was correct.

Last edited on Wed Dec 21st, 2011 05:12 am by tmonter

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 Posted: Thu Dec 29th, 2011 06:07 pm
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tmonter
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Just an update, the new control has been working fine for the last week so I think the problem is solved. It really helped having studied the problem and watching the old control failure to explain to Rheem customer service.

I give Rheem a thumbs up for fixing the problem so quickly and wouldn't hesitate to buy another one of their products from a service standpoint.

I still believe it was the gas solenoid valve that was the issue and not anything else.

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 Posted: Fri Dec 30th, 2011 05:10 am
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LazyDevil
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Thanks for the update. Isn't that feeling of accomplishment great?

Happy New Year!
Chuck

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