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| Pressure in Tank... | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Wed Jan 25th, 2012 10:33 pm |
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1st Post |
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ladypoco Member
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VERY hot & high pressure water was frequently-forcefully exiting house(like its supposed to-just excessively) so I called plumber. Plumber replaced Relief valve and we went 2 days-no problems or relief valve release(that I know of): Now very hot water is once again exiting the house at least 3 times a day-not as forcefully as before, but steady flow for about 10 mins...(wasting lots of gas!) What is going on?
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| Posted: Wed Jan 25th, 2012 10:41 pm |
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2nd Post |
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elenano Member 
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Go to the Tank main page, click on Tanklets on the left, and read Temperature Pressure Relief Valves. There are tests there you can do yourself to determine what's happening. Not normal. Randy Schuyler
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| Posted: Thu Jan 26th, 2012 03:16 am |
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3rd Post |
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ladypoco Member
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Thanks for stating it was not normal...I didn't think so either... Plumber came back out for no charge-replaced the relief valve (again) and it seems to be working fine now. I guess new parts are sometimes faulty too.
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| Posted: Thu Jan 26th, 2012 05:22 am |
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4th Post |
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Geno_3245 Member
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Plumber might have put a higher pressure TP on water heater. Pressure on tank shouldn't exceed 80 psi or damage can occur to water heater and plumbing. Buy a BTG100 pressure gauge or similar and connect gauge to water heater drain valve to register pressure when all faucets are OFF. You may have a closed system with faulty check valve or other plumbing problem that is causing pressure on the tank since hot water wants to expand, but closed system causes pressure to build inside pipes and tank, and then TP releases pressure. High pressure can be eliminated by installing pressure reducing valve or expansion tank. AND by reading more detailed information in tanklets. Other probems can include bad gas control thermostat that is out of calibration. Causing overheating. Solution is to replace gas control valve. Also stacking is a remote possibility: where several short draws 1 gallon or less of hot water causes cold water to enter bottom of tank so burner turns ON, but water at top of tank is already fully heated. More hot water rises. Water at top gets hotter, and TP valve releases pressure.
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| Posted: Thu Jan 26th, 2012 07:28 am |
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5th Post |
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elenano Member
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While it appears that I'm a minimalist and Geno is a maximalist (if there is such a thing) in our answers, we're both agreed that assuming all is well now is not in your interest. I lean toward thermal expansion and/or excessive water pressure (anything over 80 psi). But if that doesn't pan out, Geno's other scenarios should be checked, too. New parts sometimes are faulty, but when two T&P valves in a row open to emit water and then close again, it's more likely there are pressure problems than faulty parts. For one thing, faulty parts keep on running/dribbling/dripping. Randy Schuyler
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| Posted: Sun Jan 29th, 2012 02:54 am |
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6th Post |
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Ej Member 
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A good rule of thumb is over pressure leaks slowing out a TP valve while over temp gushes.
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