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 Posted: Sat Mar 2nd, 2013 02:55 am
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orangputeh
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I have a brand new Rheem 42vr4034pf.

once installed it ran thru 3 cycles and then went out.

1. the pilot will stay on as long as I hold button down. let up it goes out. a couple times i got the pilot to stay on. turned gas on, turned dial. burner went on for a split second and then poof out.

will the pilot go on at all if the safety shut device in the combustion chamber is broke?

I called RHEEM. they asked all about installation. It has adequate ventalation for combustion chambers. the vent goes straight up to roof. ( no bends) new gas line that was leak tested. also purged gas line of air. do i have to redo this step?

the RHEEM rep suggested that the water heater went thru 3 cycles, some reason overheated that broke the vial on the safety shut off.( in combustion chamber )

or it could be the control.

my main question is , that if the pilot would even work if the safety vial broke?

how could it overheat if installed correctly. my son works at a plumbing supply and his co worker is a cert tech that checked the installation out.

the control has an auto shut off feature? for what reasons?

RHEEM gave me a claim # since it is brand new but I want to make sure if there is anything else I can do or check before paying for a cert tech to come out and then worrying about RHEEM reimbursing me.

any direction appreciated.

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 Posted: Sat Mar 2nd, 2013 03:32 am
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eleent
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Hello:  Is your fuel natural gas or propane?  Also, did anyone notice anything unusual about gas pressure?

Yours,  Larry

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 Posted: Sun Mar 3rd, 2013 06:40 am
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orangputeh
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thank you for replying. the gas is propane. a pressure check was not done.

do you think i should purge line again. the first time i did it came out strong at first and then a short silence ( i assume air ) and then strong again.

the next day i did it again and it was continuous strong.

i am researching past threads here looking for a similar one. thank you for this forum.

p.s. the pilot light is a nice blue flame until i let up button and it goes out.

if the heat link is infact broken , why would it melt if i have good ventilation and air vents are clear?

Last edited on Sun Mar 3rd, 2013 08:17 am by orangputeh

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 Posted: Sun Mar 3rd, 2013 09:44 am
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orangputeh
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the glass vial on the fvir is not broken.

could a brand new thermocouple fail so fast? could i take the burner assmbly to a place to have it tested? i don't have a proper multimeter.

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 Posted: Sun Mar 3rd, 2013 02:32 pm
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Ej
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If the glass vial is broken you could still light the pilot if there was enough air present in the burner chamber. If not it would go out when you let go of the pilot button. If you can remove the burner check to see if the FVIR loinkage is tight and not flopping around when you touch it. Sometimes thermocouples will short out once you heat them up. Most of the time I can hear the control valve give off a click when this happens.

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 Posted: Sun Mar 3rd, 2013 03:09 pm
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orangputeh
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thank you. the fvir is not broken and is tight. several times i got the pilot light to stay on for about a minute and then would hear a click in the control and it would go out.

i took the burner assembly out to check the combustion shutoff device. it is ok as stated above. what an ingenious device.

so now i gotta check the thermocouple. i don't have the proper multimeter. ihave a radio shack on but it does not have a mb function .

i could exchange the thermocouple from the old tank. i guess.

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 Posted: Sun Mar 3rd, 2013 04:37 pm
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Ej
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Either exchange it or run over and buy one at the hardwre store. It's going to be either that or the control valve.

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 Posted: Sun Mar 3rd, 2013 04:41 pm
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orangputeh
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i took the old thermocouple off my old heater and put it in the brand new burner assembly. i had to cut the rubber round plug to get it through.

the pilot stays on . on the first try and then the burner came on and has been running now for 15 minutes with a nice healthy flame.

i wish i had done this last weekend but i was afraid til i came here and read about a hundred posts and watched a handful of utube videos.

now i am gonna run it thru several cycles and see if it operates correctly. i wonder what made a brand new thermocuple go bad after just 2 days.

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 Posted: Sun Mar 3rd, 2013 05:58 pm
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Ej
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For anyone else reading this, when trying to remove the old thermocouple it will not pull through the rubber plug because of the lip at the base of the probe flared the wrong way for exiting. I just cut the thermocouple then pull it through. When iserting the new one just push the tip through hard and it will go through. If you damaged the plug you can always use a little 100% clear silicone to seal the plug.

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 Posted: Mon Mar 4th, 2013 12:26 am
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orangputeh
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this is a great forum. thanks for the help.

still working all day now. keeping fingers crossed.

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 Posted: Thu Mar 7th, 2013 03:10 am
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orangputeh
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still working fine on 3rd day. called Rheem and told them what happened. next day received FREE the whole pilot assembly. good for the future. should of told them the control was bad too but don't need the bad karma, ha ha.

thanks guys.;)

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